County Restaurant: Rustic Modern

County, located on one of the best blocks for eating in NYC (Gramercy Tavern, Il Mulino, Veritas [you will be missed!], Mari Vanna) got a new chef over the summer. Chef Jan Feshan has worked in some of the world’s finest kitchens—in NYC, at Maloney & Porcelli he tutored under David Burke and before coming to County he spent some years at ABC Kitchen where Dan Kluger was a huge influence. You can appreciate the freshness of ingredients and Feshan’s confident approach at County. The menu focuses on classic dishes orchestrated with a masterful touch. Extraordinary ingredients dominate, like the honey that is drizzled on the house-made ricotta, as well as 95 varieties of pepper that add a touch of heat to many of his dishes. County is cozy and friendly—if you go, you will return. Worth noting: they stay open between lunch and dinner, so perfect for a rest from shopping and grabbing a bite, or a sip of one of their nicely-mixed cocktails.

This was potent. Candied Ginger Old Fashioned: Bourbon, Ramazzatti, Candied Ginger, Angostura & Orange Bitters

Light yet intense. Hudson Swizzle: Vodka, Fresh Blueberry & Lemon, Ginger, Pomegranate, Orange Blossom Water

A hefty portion. Apple Walnut Salad with Bibb Lettuce, Apple, Spiced Walnuts, Parmesan Vinaigrette.

This was the special appetizer of that night, fried shrimp. Quite good.

Pan Roasted Chicken: Organic Chicken, House Smoked Bacon, Roasted Corn Succotash

Another special: Deconstructed Black Bass. Those yellow dollops of sauce were on the spicy side.