Umbrian Olive Oil: Casa Margherita

As I was writing the last piece on olive oil, Adrian, a friend from my London days, contacted me about his new cookbook. He now lives in Umbria in an organic olive orchard, and has chronicled his experiences into his book, Casa Margherita Cookbook—CUOCO—Recipes Inspired by Umbria’s Larder. The book features recipes from local towns with an emphasis on their signature foods: Perugia’s chocolate, Cascia’s saffron, Trevi’s olive oil. Photos below show layouts from the book, which includes personal photos and insights into the Italian lifestyle. The book can be purchased directly from the website, for about $15. Or, while you are at the website you might want to adopt an olive tree (around $105) which gets you: a gift box with tin of extra virgin olive oil, certificate and olive oil handbook; a copy of Cuoco; and at harvest time, 2 litres of extra virgin olive oil from your very own tree. See the recipe for salt cod fritters below from the book. It could be the perfect antipasto to serve to your next guests.

SALT COD FRITTERS
Serves 4
8 oz salt cod (baccalà) soaked overnight in lots of unsalted water with the bones removed and then shredded in a food processor
2 oz flour
salt
oil for frying
In a mixing bowl add the flour and salt and mix well. Take a tablespoon of salt cod and form a pattie with your hands and dust well in the flour. Deep fry these in batches in hot oil until they are golden brown.

Austin in 4 days

A wedding brought me down to Texas in mid-March, the same time the SXSW festival was going on. Loved the area and plan to go back when I have more time to explore—and when there is less craziness. Due to hotels being booked a year in advance had us to staying outside the center of the action, so we were only able to catch a few glimpses of the downtown, but managed to squeeze in a few treats around the wedding festivities. A pre-wedding Latin dinner was had at La Condesa (photo above). Rehearsal dinner was held at Chez Zee, a cute spot north of the city. Recovery brunch was appreciated at Moonshine (photo below). It was a beautiful time to visit, the weather was ideal, just warm enough to not wear a coat, just cool enough to make it comfortable. Pretty Bluebonnets (the Texas state flower) were seen all over the place. See more photos of the trip at this link.

Scottish Dining: Mark Greenaway and 21212

I was lured to Scotland by two of my dearest friends to attend their wedding a few weeks ago, which gave me the opportunity to maximize the experience and include some fine dining while in Edinburgh. Mark Greenaway, a restaurant in a sophisticated townhouse opened a few months ago, and has been getting some great reviews, so I made sure to have a reservation before I left New York. The experience turned out to be fantastic: photo above is my favorite entree of the trip: Goosnargh Duck Breast: Sausage Roll, Potato Croquette, Peas, Caramelized Watermelon, and Tarragon Jus. The duck was cooked to perfection, with a nice layer of fat, and had the ideal texture to pair with the sausage rolls. The next night, we snagged a last-minute reservation at 21212, which was open on Sunday because the Fringe Festival was in full swing. Lucky for us, we were able to escape the fray around the Royal Mile and head over to another beautiful, posh townhouse. 21212 gets its name from the menu, which has a choice of 2 starters, 1 soup, choice of 2 entrees, 1 cheese, and a choice of 2 desserts. Photo below shows the entree: The Chicken Roast Dinner, French slow-cooked corn-fed chicken breast, with  bacon, chipolatas, ham, 4 Scottish root vegetables, mini roasties, cranberry puree, sage & onion, white bread & rosemary sauce, tiny leeks & crisp skin. It was two nights of pure decadence! See more photos of all the fabulous bites on my FB page in the Foodie Scotland album.

Scottish Cocktails Report Edinburgh/Glasgow: Blythswood Square and Ubiquitous Chip

After a few days in Edinburgh, we headed west to Glasgow. Blythswood Square Hotel proved to be not only a totally high-class spot, but also devoted to cocktail making. One sip convinced us to stay for dinner as well, and try some more cocktails after we had some food in our system. Bartender David Smillie invented a cocktail for me on the spot, the Teq App, when I told him I had a preference for tequila. He blended apricot brandy, pink grapefruit, lime and pineapple juice, added a dash of Peychards Bitters and egg white with Tapatio Blanco (photo, top). Fabulous! On the other end of town, we stopped in at the Ubiquitous Chip, celebrating its 40th year in business. We chose the tiniest of the three bars, where Peter treated us to the specialties of the house. Photo shows the Ginger Mojito with Anogstura 5 Year Old Rum, Mint, Lime and Ginger. See more photos from the trip at Scottish Cocktails on my FB page.

Scottish Lodging: The Scotsman Hotel and Citizen M

I try to stay in boutique hotels whenever I travel, and the two that I picked in Scotland could not be more different from each other, making for a split personality trip! In Edinburgh, The Scotsman was built in 1905, originally as offices for the newspaper of the same name. The architecture is striking, and unique, and the hotel is like a maze, as it is actually 3 buildings, each serviced by its own elevator. Each of the suites are different. The lower level houses a stainless steel swimming pool below the spa and gym. When we headed over to Glasgow, and Citizen M, we encountered a totally modern, space with personality. The rooms were designed and fitted modularly, so that each room was identical. A sumptuous, king-size bed decked with plump, cushy pillows, spanned wall to wall, in front of a window. Inside the space was a frosted glass cubicle which housed a luxurious shower and the toilet. The TV, lighting, and window blinds and shades were all controlled with a Philips remote. We nicknamed the room "the pod" for its futuristic qualities. See more photos of both hotels in the Foodie Scotland album on FB.

signs of SUMMER at Gramercy Tavern, Veritas, and Cape Cod

Menus are morphing into summer-mode, the most exciting season for fresh ingredients. Here’s what I’ve come across in the past week or so: Gramercy Tavern’s cocktail: the Pineapple Painkiller. A super-refreshing mix of fresh strawberries with pineapple-infused rum and lemonade. Get one soon!. See more pics of our light dinner at this link, which happened to include the silkiest and meatiest oysters I have ever had. • Just across the street at Veritas, I discovered the Sweet Pea Gazpacho. What a welcome blend of flavors for summer from Chef Sam Hazen: A base of fresh peas, chicken stock, cucumber, garlic, and vinegar was thickened by a little bread, a fresh pea and cucumber julienne, Greek yogurt, lemon, and chives and topped with extra virgin olive oil and espelette. The surprise ingredient? Cedar smoked trout. Unique and fabulous. This soup was practically a meal in itself, but that did not stop us. We also sampled an array of other seafood delights, like Oysters Escabeche, a giant scallop, bass, and Beef in Transition—steak tartare + peppered sirloin + wrapped short ribs—a transition that I wholehearedly welcome. Decadent! See more photos from the spectacular dinner here. • Over the 4th of July weekend, I was in Cape Cod, my virgin journey. I was quite enamored with the quaitness and air of tranquility that made the weekend a truly relaxing escape. I will have to return and explore some more soon. (any suggestions for dining appreciated!) We had dinner at Summer Stock, a quaint spot next to the Playhouse and art museum in Dennis. My dinner started with a true taste of summer: watermelon slices served atop spinach, with a sprinkling of goat cheese and pickled red onions. They could have left off the goat cheese, as the portions were enormous here! See more interesting combos from our dinner here.

Seen @ High Point Market

I recently visited North Carolina to see the latest at the High Point furniture market and was pleased to see artists and manufacturers using recycled materials in a variety of creative ways. It was also nice to see furniture still hand-made in America—tasteful, and sturdy. Photo left shows re-used Brazilian truck tarps from Grace and Blake covering benches and ottomans, photo right is a glimpse of some of the offerings from Busbin, who design and manufacture pieces of modern, yet classic furniture that can be handed down to the next generation. It was fun to get out of the city for a week or so, see more photos from the trip here.

Philadelphia’s JG Domestic

Super Chef Jose Garces has quite a few projects up his sleeve. I got to hear the inside scoop all this week while at the photo shoot for his new cookbook, due to come out some time next year. Photos here show the work-in-progress of JG Domestic, which will feature a high end, farm-to-table menu, with all ingredients sourced in the USA. It connects right to the main train station in the Cira Centre, so New Yorkers can zip in and get a taste of what Philadelphians have been raving about. Also on the agenda: Iron Chef battles, a taco truck called Guapos Tacos, a 38-acre farm to supply food to all his places, and Frohmans Wursthaus, a beer and wurst spot. (Can you guess where the name Frohmans comes from?) If you are planning to spend any time in Philly, I suggest a full restaurant tour. You will not be disappointed. Photo at the top shows staff-drawn mural over the open kitchen, and below, future booth area. Restaurant opens in early October.

Montreal Report: DNA Restaurant

Perfect DNA  Chef Derek Dammann is a true believer in head-to-toe dining, not for the shock value a customer might get when offered Veal Heart, Kidney, and Liver Kebabs, but for the practicality of it, and as a way of going back to the way we used to eat. The first item that my eye hit on the menu was Blood Cake. As a child, I was served Jelita (Slovak), which I loved, but had I known those delicious sausages had blood as an ingredient, I would never have let it pass my lips. Derek’s version (photo) came with fried egg on top and tossed chanterelles. A true taste treat. The decor wins my top prize for design cleverness-plus-comfort of all the places we visited in Montreal. There was a subtle sense of humor to the tufted chair back, whose one button went awry, and had only one arm. The orange lounge area screamed ORANGE in the most spirited way, and was totally orange down to the glassware. My friend Bob told me of a surprise in the men’s room, which I won’t spoil for you, but it adds a wonderfully whimsical touch. See more pictures from our lunch visit here of the house-made charcuterie, boneless pig head terrine, the downstairs private dining room, shop and wine cellar/meat locker. Next time I'm in Montreal it will be dinner at DNA.

Montreal Report: Barroco

Late Night Leisure  What a joy to come across such a sweet, friendly, welcoming little spot. Barroco's manager Graham Warner, who turned out to be my favorite host in Montreal, made us feel right at home. We sampled the place early evening, then Graham made a bar reservation for us after dinner, after midnight, actually. I will admit, other than a couple of oysters, most of our intake had to do with cocktails. I gave new bartender Cai carte blanche, and he concocted some very well balanced and imaginative drinks that suited my palate overwhemingly. Must be his chef background. Seen here is one of the drinks, with succulent slice of grapefruit. Cai also got creative wth a blow torch and fruit, and served up the slices with a shot of vodka. See more of the space, which adhered to Old Montreal’s stone and brick look, with some elegant touches, and the cocktails we sampled here.

Montreal Report: L’Original

Canadian Comfort  What to do on a rainy Monday night? Get all warm and cozy at L’Original and be ready for some incredibly delicious fare and laid-back personal service. I am still thinking about the fish that I had there, which was set atop a mini pool of creamy-tangy, sauce, with a touch of tomato, that was absolutely divine. Bob felt the same way about his scallop brochette, which also was swathed in creaminess. Are you getting the picture? We started the meal off with a dozen oysters, and we sure picked the right restaurant to do so. Daniel Notkin, the supplier, was more than happy to talk about the different origins and tastes of the oysters, of which we had 3 out of 4 offered on that night, then ordered 2 more of the ommitted offering, strictly for learning purposes! See more photos of our meal, and the rustic birch trees and stone-wall setting here. I wish this place was in New York!

Dijon, not just for mustard

This week, the French city of Dijon led a week-long celebration of its culinary delights. Nine chefs and sommeliers arrived with tasty recipes and excellent wine, creme de cassis, and even a saffron-infused gin. I had to give up my meat-free plan for the day to enjoy the pate, duck, chicken, and beef on hand. I have no regrets. See more pictures of the event here, and be sure to check out the exhibit at the Met, The Mourners: Medieval Tomb Sculptures From The Court Of Burgundy. In addition to eating and drinking well, here are some compelling reasons to visit Dijon:
—In 2009, for the second year in a row, L’Entreprise magazine named Dijon the most attractive city in France.
—Dijon encompasses more than 1,700 acres of parks and gardens. Focused on low-impact transportation, Dijon offers citizens free bicycles to get around, as well as natural gas-powered buses, an electric mini-bus, and a soon-to-be-built tram.
—Dijon is located in the heart of Burgundy whose wine heritage dates back to medieval times. The tiny vineyards of Burgundy produce some of the worlds most highly refined, appreciated and elite wines.
—Dijon’s architecture includes houses that were constructed by the city’s most powerful families from the 15th Century until the time of the French Revolution.

a culinary B + B in Portugal

When my British friends Andrew and Rupert decided to open a B+B in Castro Marim, Portugal, I knew it would be something special. I had the opportunity to live with them while working for a publisher in London a few years back. To say I was pampered by Rupert’s hospitality and cooking and Andrew’s magnificent company and dry sense of humor, is just the tip of the iceberg. Between their gardening skills and culinary feats, I can attest you will be wowed, and will have vacationed properly. For more proof, see the write up in today’s Times Online UK Edition and be sure to visit Andrew John Roberts Facebook page for an ongoing, intimate look at their garden and life in the Algarve.

PARTY RECIPE / Mid-East-Mex Hummus

For an unforgettable twist to traditional hummus, try this recipe from Chef Ignacio Granda del Gallego. He is the executive chef at the Mandarin Oriental Riviera Maya in Mexico. This delicious dish arrived as the amuse bouche at the resort’s spa cafe. My bouche was tantalizingly amused! The addition of the chipotle paste adds a serious kick and the shaved Reggiano Parmesan supplies a dry, salty surpise. If you are pressed for time, start with store-bought hummus.
1 lb. cooked garbanzo beans
1 tbsp. tahini
3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. of chipotle paste
1 tsp. lemon juice
Salt
Paprika
Sliced baguette
Cilantro-infused olive oil
Blend the first five ingredients until you have a smooth puree. Salt to taste. Before serving, place in a bowl and top with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of paprika. To each baguette slice, add a line of the cilantro-infused olive oil.

Hip Hostess NYC: NOW on Facebook

The Hip Hostess has a travel photo log on Facebook. See HipHostess Nyc for the full picture.

RESTAURANT Denver: 1515 Market St / fine dining meets honky tonk

1515 Market Street, Denver, CO I ended my trip in Denver on a high note, food-wise that is. This place had a split personality, consisting of a funky bar downstairs and a dining area with fancy glassed-in wine room upstairs. I must have arrived at an odd hour (9:30?)—as the serious diners upstairs were on their way out and the serious drinkers downstairs had not yet arrived. Faced with the option of dining categorically solo, I almost chose to exit, but then opted to sit in the downstairs bar—which totally worked in my favor. I had the super cool and friendly staff all to myself and at my beck and call. My luck continued with my picks from the menu. The dandelion salad was extremely fresh and vibrant, with perfectly balanced tastes of bitter and sweet and textures of crunchy and creamy. They did not skimp on the portion of the Three Styles of Duck, which consisted of a confit leg, spring roll, and rendered breast. I don’t think my photo does justice to the Pollock-like styling of the dish whose components' flavors played to each other so beautifully. Having been so impressed by the offerings so far, I re-examined the menu and came across Cold Caesar Salad SOUP with bacon foam, croutons, tomato concassés, and caesar dressing. What? How did I miss this item? Though I had already done two courses, I decided that I HAD to try this, and was more than pleased with the outcome. This soup all-of-a-sudden made gazpacho obsolete, and upped the ante for sophisticated summer fare. My compliments to Chef Chris Laramie.

RECIPE / LEMON POPPY SEED CAKE

You can enjoy this pretty little cake from Chef Jennifer Jasinski at Bistro Vendôme, in Denver, or employ your own baking talents, wherever you are...

Lemon Poppy Seed Cake
2 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 lb butter, softened
2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 cup buttermilk
3/4 tbl vanilla extract
1/4 cup poppy seeds
1 Combine and sift first 4 ingredients.
2 In mixer with paddle attachment, place butter and sugar, mix until smooth. Slowly add each egg and mix until incorporated.
3 Into mixture, alternate between adding flour mix and buttermilk, mix until smooth. Add vanilla and poppy seed and continue to mix.
4 Take a cake pan and spray with coating. Pour mixture into the pan so it is about 1.5 inches high. Bake at 325ºF for 15 minutes or until cake bounces back to touch,

White Chocolate Mousse Topping
1lb 6 oz white chocolate
1 cup strawberry puree
1cup heavy cream
3 1/2 sheets gelatin, softened
1 quart heavy cream
1 Chop chocolate and place in mixing bowl.
2 Heat puree and cup of cream together, pour over chocolate and mix with a whisk
3 Add gelatin and continue to whisk and cool.
4 Place the quart of heavy cream in a mixer bowl and whip until medium peeks are formed.
5 Slowly fold the chocolate into the cream mixture until fully incorporated, chill until it completely sets up.

To assemble: Cut desired shape out of cake and brush with simple syrup. Pipe mousse mix on top of cake and garnish with fresh strawberries.

Rioja RESTAURANT / Denver

Rioja, Denver, CO The team of Chef Jennifer Jasinski and partner Beth Gruitch are wowing downtown Denver and pulling out all the culinary stops with Rioja. Jennifer makes each dish a work of art with complex pairings that impress and delight. Her experience with opening restaurants for Wolfgang Puck inspired her to design the open kitchen, which is a hotbed of activity and pulls you into the excitement of the prep. Whereas Bistro Vendôme (see OUT+ABOUT), their sister restaurant, offers comforting french fare, the dishes in Rioja are a unique taste experience. For instance, the tartare here was made with tuna accompanied by marinated apple and fennel salad and crispy apple chips. All the homemade pastas are to die for! Try the candied lemon gnocchi with butter poached crab or her signature dish—a duo of artichoke tortelloni which is stuffed with goat cheese and artichoke mousse, sits in an artichoke broth, and even has artichoke chips! Cocktails also offer distinctive flavor combinations. For those who prefer slightly tart drinks, there’s the Pomeginger (see photo), made with vodka, pomegranate juice, ginger, and twist of lemon. I could go on and on, but I insist you try it for yourself. Bring your appetite and your loved ones here for a special celebration, or just make one up!

Denver: BISTRO VENDOME / magnifique!

Bistro Vendôme, Denver, CO For a taste of France via Denver come to Bistro Vendôme. Chef Jennifer Jasinski and partner Beth Gruitch will coddle you with their combination of warm hospitality and great fare for a positively memorable night out. Jennifer, who for 10 years opened restaurants for Wolfgang Puck, has a way with proteins, and as a sworn carnivore, I was thrilled to sample a gorgeous array of charcuterie and pates, followed by a steak tartare topped with quail egg (see photo), and still had room to savor the pepper-seared foie gras served on an onion tart with sauteed peaches. A salad of roasted yellow beets rounded out the meal, whose ingredients were unbelievablly flavorful and came from nearby farms. Speaking of which, Jennifer uses as one of her vendors a cutting-edge aeroponic farm called Grow Anywhere (see photos). Owner Mark Haberer developed the growing techniques, which use no soil or pesticides, and whose greens can be cut and shipped to the restaurant in a matter of hours. His array of greens, sprouts, and mini vegetables were used in many of the dishes at Bistro Vendome, and the team’s other successful restaurant, Rioja (see OUT+ABOUT). And for all you bakers out there, Jennifer shared her recipe for Lemon Poppy Seed Cake. This sumptuous little cake’s poppy seeds add a surprising crunch and has an ultra-light white chocolate mousse topping, which was welcome treat at the end of the meat-fest. See EXPERTISE section for recipe.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL The Ivy / enticingly rich

THE IVY, San Diego, CA What a nice surprise I had after arbitrarily picking this hotel on a recent trip to the Fancy Food Show. I told everyone I spoke to back home that I did not want to come home. The style was “all me!” The room came complete with not a mini, but a full bar, (center photo) with fridge and a gournet coffee maker plus a tray of goodies that included: snacks of all kinds, chocolate, mints, useful kits, a pack of cards, and audaciously, sex toys for one and another for couples. My room was on the inside of the hotel, meaning a wall of windows opened up onto a 3-story courtyard, so you got to play voyeur—or employ the light-eliminating curtain front. The bath featured toiletries from the mindfully crafted and beautfifully packaged Greek company, Korres. The glass shower door featured a cutout that you could hang the bath mat from, but also allowed you to turn on the water before you got inside. Clever. The bed, bedspread, and pillows coaxed you to dreamland, and the satellite radio that came on one of the channels on the flat screen tv completed the chilled-out feeling of the room. I asked and was given a grand tour of the hotel and was blown away by the suites, and apartment, which had a mosaic tile bathroom that was the size of a studio apartment.
TOP NOTCH Once I discovered the Quarter Kitchen, I decided that it was THE place to be, for lunch, dinner or drinks. Chef Damon Gordon, who trained with Alain Ducasse and Jeffrey Chodorow, was in charge here, and I was extremely impressed not only at the menu, but at the friendly and faultless service and by the artful display of all the dishes, as seen in my minimalist caesar salad. Even the butter was memorable. The roof bar had a great view of the city plus nice lounging areas one of which had a really cool blue-flame-on-white-rocks fire pit, that was actually necessary and a welcome perk at night, which in January were a little chilly. There is also a pool on the roof, and a private cabana that can be accessed through one of the suites, done up mod-Morroccan style.
EXTRA PERKS I could not resist taking the free gas-guzzling Escalade service down to the convention center—it was nice to arrive in style! You can also arrange to have your own butler, to pack, iron, or perform other butler services, all included in the room price.
WEEKENDS I was told that the weekends can get pretty wild at The Ivy, and was sorry that I could not be there for the festitvities. That is when the two clubs are open. Next time!